In 1998 I had the opportunity to live in a white-walled village in southern Spain for part of the summer. It was in that old village that I had the blessing of learning to cook with a couple of neighborhood grandmothers who were very curious about me! In exchange for their lessons, I taught them how to make flour tortillas and salsas. Our time together made for some great memories and simple homey dishes using garbanzos.
Garbanzos have a low glycemic index and glycemic load, making them a useful and inexpensive food for pre-diabetic people and those with type 2 diabetes. This recipe is an adaptation of a nourishing soup that I had with the grandmas, that I served at my former restaurant, Lola.
My former restaurant incorporated many healing foods of the Americas that were brought to Spain during colonization—such as chiles, beans, peppers, squash, and tomatoes. Gazpacho, Basque piperade, Tortilla de Patata…are all classic Spanish dishes whose very foundations are made with many Mesoamerican ingredients, such as chiles and/or peppers.
“A chickpea leaps almost over the rim of the pot
where it’s being boiled.
‘Why are you doing this to me?’
The cook knocks him down with the ladle.
‘Don’t you try to jump out.
You think I’m torturing you.
I’m giving you flavor,
so you can mix with spices and rice
and be the lovely vitality of a human being.
Remember when you drank rain in the garden.
That was for this.’
Grace first. Sexual pleasure,
then a boiling new life begins,
and the Friend has something good to eat.
Eventually the chickpea will say to the cook,
‘Boil me some more.
Hit me with the skimming spoon.
I can’t do this by myself.
I’m like an elephant that dreams of gardens
back in Hindustan and doesn’t pay attention
to his driver. You’re my cook, my driver,
my way into existence. I love your cooking.’
The cook says,
‘I was once like you,
fresh from the ground. Then I boiled in time,
and boiled in the body, two fierce boilings.
My animal soul grew powerful.
I controlled it with practices,
and boiled some more, and boiled
once beyond that,
and became your teacher.’”
Serves 6
1 ½ C. dried garbanzos (soaked overnight)
1 whole garlic head
3 dried bay leaves
1 yellow onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 bunch spinach
2 yellow potatoes, peeled, diced in 1” cubes
1 tsp. whole cumin seeds
2 tsp. dried Mexican oregano
1 – 2 tsp. red pepper chile flakes
1 tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. turmeric
1 quart vegetable or chicken stock
4 C. water
1 lemon, juiced
sea salt to taste
Prepare the garbanzos:
Drain soaked garbanzos and place in a large saucepan with the head of garlic, and bay leaves. Cover with plenty of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 1 – 2 hours or until the beans are soft, but still firm to the bite, adding more water if necessary. Remove bay leaves, garlic, and drain.
Prepare the soup:
Place a large soup pot over medium heat and add olive oil. When hot, add diced onion and minced garlic. Stir a couple of minutes, then add cumin, Mexican oregano, smoked paprika, turmeric chile flakes, and cook for 30 seconds longer. Add stock and water, turning up heat to bring to a simmer. Add garbanzos, diced potatoes, and sea salt (about 1 tsp). Allow flavors to marry and potatoes to cook, about 25 minutes, adding more water or stock if necessary. Once the potatoes are cooked, add the spinach, lemon juice, and black pepper. Stir. Taste, and adjust seasoning.
Serve with a crusty bread and Manchego cheese :)
You can find garbanzo beans grown by the Akimel O’odham here: http://store.ramonafarms.com/Our-Garbanzos-Kalvash/products/6/