Cholla Bud + Tepary Bean Soup

A light, immune-supporting, vegetarian soup, perfect for any time of year using white tepary beans and calcium rich buds from the cholla cactus (yôe). Cholla cactus grows all over the Southwest, including the base of Oku Pin (now called Sandia Mountains) in Albuquerque, New Mexico, where I imagine my Tewa ancestors gathered and prepared them for nourishment. The addition of fennel and verdolagas make this an even more health-giving soup, full of vitamins C and A. For a vegan version of this recipe, simply omit the parmesan cheese.

Please Note: This recipe takes a little planning as you need to cook the tepary beans and the cholla buds beforehand. See METHOD below. Also, if you cannot find verdolagas at your local grocer or farmer’s market, you can simply substitute them with baby spinach.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 teaspoon, olive oil
1 fennel bulb with fronds, bulbs sliced, save fronds for garnish
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup dried white *tepary beans
1 head of garlic, roasted**, cloves removed and mashed
1/4 cup dried *cholla buds
1 small bunch of verdolagas (purslane), leaves only
juice of one lemon
1 quart vegetable stock
grated parmesan for serving 

METHOD

This step is best to do early in the day, or even better, the day before. Also, whenever I cook any type of beans or cholla buds, I prepare a little extra so I can freeze them for various recipes or to toss in salads later.

Cook your tepary beans by soaking them overnight in plenty of water. The next day, drain the water (you can water your plants with this), place soaked beans in a small saucepan covering them with fresh water. Bring to a boil, cover, then simmer until beans are soft (about 1 1/2 - 2 hours). Drain and set aside.

Cook your dried cholla buds by soaking them overnight in plenty of water. The next day, drain the water (you can water your plants with this), place soaked buds in a small saucepan covering them with fresh water. Bring to a boil, cover, then simmer until buds are soft (about 1/2 - 1 hour). Drain and set aside.

To a stockpot, add the olive oil, heat over medium. Sauté the fennel slices and onions until soft (a couple of minutes).

Add the vegetable stock, cooked beans, roasted garlic, and cooked cholla buds. Allow soup to simmer to combine the flavors, adding water if necessary to thin it out. Add the verdolagas and cook until wilted. Add the lemon juice.

Serve in individual bowls, garnished with fennel fronds and a sprinkling of parmesan cheese.

*White tepary beans and dried cholla cactus buds are available from Native Seed Search in Tucson, AZ

**To roast garlic, cut an unpeeled garlic head in half. Drizzle with olive oil. Place in heavy tin foil and wrap tightly. Roast in a 400 degree oven until soft and caramelized – about 30 minutes. Your house will smell amazing. Remove from foil and squeeze out the roasted garlic. You can then mash them with the back of a fork or in a mortar and pestle.

C-BOMBA HIBISCUS JAM

Hibiscus flowers are native to Southeast Asia and North Africa, but they do grow in many other warm climates such as central Mexico, where they were brought during colonial times. Hibiscus flowers have powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, however, for this recipe I am focusing on their high vitamin C content. Think of this spicy recipe as herbal medicine more than a jam, by simply eating a spoonful or so when you need an immune boosting dose of vitamin C. I would stray away from a peanut butter and C-Bomba sandwich, as hibiscus flowers are considered to be a diuretic, and well, many people put a lot of jam on their sandwiches.

INGREDIENTS

1½ cups dried hibiscus flowers

½ cup dried rosehips

½ cup honey or agave syrup

2 cups orange juice

1 or 2 chile de arbol

METHOD

Add hibiscus, rosehips, orange juice, and chile to a non-reactive saucepan.  Bring to boil over medium heat.  Turn down to simmer and cook for 30 minutes.  Remove from heat and allow mixture to cool for at least 10 minutes.  

Put mixture in a blender or food processor, add agave or honey, and pulse to desired consistency. 

Transfer mixture to a clean jar and allow it to cool completely before putting a lid on. Refrigerate.  Jam will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. Take a spoonful when you need a dose of vitamin C.

Hibiscus Flower Health Benefits – A Word of Caution – Hibiscus flowers are generally recognized as safe, but if you’re pregnant, breastfeeding or on any medications, please check with your doctor before consuming any new foods/herbs.

SOPA DE GARBANZOS

In 1998 I had the opportunity to live in a white-walled village in southern Spain for part of the summer. It was in that old village that I had the blessing of learning to cook with a couple of neighborhood grandmothers who were very curious about me! In exchange for their lessons, I taught them how to make flour tortillas and salsas. Our time together made for some great memories and simple homey dishes using garbanzos.

Garbanzos have a low glycemic index and glycemic load, making them a useful and inexpensive food for pre-diabetic people and those with type 2 diabetes. This recipe is an adaptation of a nourishing soup that I had with the grandmas, that I served at my former restaurant, Lola.

My former restaurant incorporated many healing foods of the Americas that were brought to Spain during colonization—such as chiles, beans, peppers, squash, and tomatoes. Gazpacho, Basque piperade, Tortilla de Patata…are all classic Spanish dishes whose very foundations are made with many Mesoamerican ingredients, such as chiles and/or peppers.

“A chickpea leaps almost over the rim of the pot
where it’s being boiled.

‘Why are you doing this to me?’

The cook knocks him down with the ladle.

‘Don’t you try to jump out.
You think I’m torturing you.
I’m giving you flavor,
so you can mix with spices and rice
and be the lovely vitality of a human being.

Remember when you drank rain in the garden.
That was for this.’

Grace first. Sexual pleasure,
then a boiling new life begins,
and the Friend has something good to eat.

Eventually the chickpea will say to the cook,
‘Boil me some more.
Hit me with the skimming spoon.
I can’t do this by myself.

I’m like an elephant that dreams of gardens
back in Hindustan and doesn’t pay attention
to his driver. You’re my cook, my driver,
my way into existence. I love your cooking.’

The cook says,
‘I was once like you,
fresh from the ground. Then I boiled in time,
and boiled in the body, two fierce boilings.

My animal soul grew powerful.
I controlled it with practices,
and boiled some more, and boiled
once beyond that,
and became your teacher.’”

— Chickpea to Cook by Rumi, translated by Coleman Barks

Serves 6

1 ½ C. dried garbanzos (soaked overnight)

1 whole garlic head

3 dried bay leaves

1 yellow onion, diced

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 bunch spinach

2 yellow potatoes, peeled, diced in 1” cubes

1 tsp. whole cumin seeds

2 tsp. dried Mexican oregano

1 – 2 tsp. red pepper chile flakes

1 tsp. smoked paprika

1 tsp. turmeric

1 quart vegetable or chicken stock

4 C. water

1 lemon, juiced

sea salt to taste 

Prepare the garbanzos:

Drain soaked garbanzos and place in a large saucepan with the head of garlic, and bay leaves.  Cover with plenty of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 1 – 2 hours or until the beans are soft, but still firm to the bite, adding more water if necessary.  Remove bay leaves, garlic, and drain. 

Prepare the soup:

Place a large soup pot over medium heat and add olive oil.  When hot, add diced onion and minced garlic.  Stir a couple of minutes, then add cumin, Mexican oregano, smoked paprika, turmeric chile flakes, and cook for 30 seconds longer.  Add stock and water, turning up heat to bring to a simmer. Add garbanzos, diced potatoes, and sea salt (about 1 tsp).  Allow flavors to marry and potatoes to cook, about 25 minutes, adding more water or stock if necessary. Once the potatoes are cooked, add the spinach, lemon juice, and black pepper. Stir. Taste, and adjust seasoning. 

Serve with a crusty bread and Manchego cheese :)

You can find garbanzo beans grown by the Akimel O’odham here: http://store.ramonafarms.com/Our-Garbanzos-Kalvash/products/6/

VENEZUELAN PUMPKIN SOUP

I’m so happy to share this post in celebration of Indigenous Peoples Day (October 8), with a recipe from my friend and colleague, Chef Andrea Murdoch of Four Directions Cuisine. Andrea was kind enough to share her delicious recipe for Venezuelan Pumpkin Soup, which will be one of the dishes featured on her Indigenous Peoples Day Pop Up menu in Denver, Colorado where she lives. Andrea is a classically trained chef, writer, an advocate for PTSD Awareness, and an amazing woman all-around, representing us cooks in this Indigenous Foods Movement. Read more about her story and find a link to her website below.

“I was born in Caracas, Venezuela and adopted by a U.S. Army family. My Indigenous roots stem from the San Cristóbal area (Western Venezuela) so my love of the mountains and Andean foods runs deep. Squashes and gourds have always been important crops to Indigenous people so there are countless uses and recipes. This recipe is my version of Venezuelan pumpkin soup which utilizes coconut milk. I enjoy incorporating ingredients from the various regions and ecosystems of Latin America to educate, tell a story, but just as importantly showcase what amazing natural ingredients are available to us. Food brings people together and tells a story; these are one of the many reasons I love what I do.”

— Chef Andrea Murdoch

SERVES 8 - 10

TO ROAST THE PUMPKIN

2 each pie pumpkins (approximately 8lbs.)

2 Tbsp sunflower oil

2 Tbsp sea salt

1 Tbsp Ancho chili powder

TO ROAST THE PUMPKIN SEEDS

1 Tbsp sunflower oil

1 tsp sea salt

2 tsp paprika

TO ROAST POBLANO CHILI

1 poblano chili

1 Tbsp sunflower oil

TO FINISH THE SOUP

1 large red onion

2 Tbsp sunflower oil

pinch sea salt

2 Tbsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1 Tbsp Ancho chili powder

2 Qt Organic vegetable stock

1 Qt Organic coconut milk, Pacific Foods

METHOD

1. Wash the outside of the pumpkin and cut in half.  Scoop out the “guts” and seeds and set aside. Continue by cutting the pumpkin halves into slices approximately one inch thick.

2. Preheat oven to 375ºF. Spread the pumpkin out onto sheet pans and brush with two tablespoons of oil.  Evenly season with two tablespoons of salt and one tablespoon of chili powder. ***My preference is ancho but you can use any chili powder you prefer***  Roast in oven for 30 minutes or until the pumpkin is tender.

3. While the pumpkin roasts, clean the pulp from the seeds under cool running water.  Strain off the water and season with a tablespoon of oil, one teaspoon of salt and two teaspoons of paprika.  Evenly spread onto a sheet pan and roast for seven to ten minutes. Set aside to cool.

4. Rub the poblano with a tablespoon of oil and char over a gas burner.  Place in a small bowl, tightly cover in plastic and allow to sit for 15 minutes.  The skin will peel off easily and you can remove the seeds. If you do not have a gas burner you can roast the chili with the pumpkin or simply dice up the raw chili and sauté it with the onions in the next step.

5. When the pumpkin comes out of the oven allow it to cool for 10 minutes while you dice the onion.

6. Start heating a stock pot over low heat with two tablespoons of oil.  While the pot warms up, peel the skin off the pumpkin slices. They should still be a little warm and the skin will peel off easily.  If you run into any resistance a paring knife will be helpful.

7. Once the oil is hot, add the diced onion and a pinch of salt.  Sauté until tender, about five minutes.

8. Add the pumpkin, remaining tablespoon of chili powder, cumin, cinnamon and clove.  Gently press the pumpkin around the pot breaking it up a bit and mixing in the seasoning at the same time.

9. Add your favorite brand or homemade vegetable stock and the coconut milk and simmer for 30 minutes.

10. Process in a blender or use a stick blender to puree the pumpkin mixture.  Taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking. Garnish with the roasted pumpkin seeds and enjoy!

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TO LEARN MORE ABOUT CHEF ANDREA AND FOUR DIRECTIONS CUISINE: https://fourdirectionscuisine.com/about/

TO LEARN MORE ON HOW YOU CAN SUPPORT INDIGENOUS PEOPLES ACROSS THE GLOBE, CHECK OUT THE CULTURAL SURVIVAL WEBSITE: https://www.culturalsurvival.org/issues

PARISA'S PERSIAN GRAIN BOWL

I absolutely loved this late breakfast dish.  It was satisfying, full of flavor, and much like Parisa's art palette - exploding with lots of color! 

Parisa Parnian, founder of SAVAGE MUSE, is a lifestyle designer and visual artist who explores intersectional identities and community building in her various creative projects.  In addition to her design work, Parisa has been creating culinary + cultural experiences thru her POP-UP DINNER series at her home/design studio in Silver Lake, Los Angeles.  Find her recipe below for her delicious Persian Grain Bowl.  

To learn more about the pop-up dinners and other events Parisa is planning, visit her website at savagemuse.com or her IG @savagemuse.  

“This grain bowl is a great - use what you have in your kitchen - type of meal that can be served for breakfast, lunch or dinner.  I was inspired to whip this dish up for Felicia when she came to stay with me in Silver Lake, Los Angeles.  We enjoyed it for a late morning brunch while we talked and caught up on life.

If you don’t have time to make the Herbed Persian Rice, you can substitute any leftover cooked rice or quinoa you have sitting in your fridge and can reheat and use instead of the Persian Rice.

Nousheh Joon!”

— Parisa Parnian

COMPONENTS OF THE BOWL:

RECIPES AVAILABLE BELOW WITH AN *

• *GRAIN: Herbed Persian Rice
• GREENS: Trader Joe’s Cruciferous Crunch tossed/massaged in lemon juice & olive oil  (or your own DIY shredded greens & veggies: kale, cabbage, carrots) 
• *VEGGIE SAUTÉ: Sautéed Middle-Eastern Veggies in tomato-based sauce

TOPPINGS

• ASPARAGUS SPEARS (sautéed, grilled or baked-tossed in butter/oil & a sprinkle of salt)
• FRESH CHOPPED HERBS: CILANTRO, MINT, BASIL
• EGG (fried, poached, or however you like it)
• CRUMBLED CHEESE (FETA OR GOAT CHEESE recommended)

RECIPES BELOW

HERBED PERSIAN RICE

You are basically going to cook this just like how you cook/boil a pot of basic white rice. Except you’re adding dried herbs to it at the beginning, so it cooks along with the rice to create a lovely green-speckled rice dish.

• Place basmati/jasmine rice and water in a pot at a 2:1 ration (ie for one cup rice put in two cups water)
• Salt to taste (recommend 1/2 tsp per 1 cup rice, more if you like it salty)
• Add dried herbs and mix in with rice and water.  For every cup of (dry) rice, I suggest 1/4 cup of dried herbs.  Herbs to use: dill, tarragon, fenugreek, chives.  Dill is the easiest to find and it tastes good all on its own in the rice dish!
• Bring rice to a boil and cook according to basic rice cooking instructions.

PRO TIP:  Make this rice for dinner and serve with a protein of your choice (especially yummy with fish) and double the recipe so you have enough to use in your grain bowl.  This rice freezes really well.  This rice also tastes really delicious with a dollop of yogurt on top!

NOTE: TO REHEAT RICE

Place in a small pot with a lid.  Add a couple of tablespoons of water to the rice (enough to create steam).  Reheat on med-high for 5-10 minutes- until it is soft and warmed all the way thru.  Make sure you pay attention that you don’t burn the rice due to lack of water or keeping on stove too long!)

MIDDLE-EASTERN VEGGIE SAUTÉ 

• Chop up an assortment of veggies. Maybe start with one of each veggie.  (ie zucchini, mushrooms, red/yellow/green bell peppers, tomatoes, onions, garlic, 
• Sauté over med-high heat with butter or oil of your choice for about 5-7 minutes. Make sure you use enough oil/butter to cover the entire bottom of the pan.  It helps to put a lid on the pan to keep the heat and moisture locked in.  I tend to alternate between tossing the veggies in the pan to make sure it’s getting evenly cooked and then putting the lid on for a minute or two in between.
• When the veggies look like they are close to being done/cooked, add tomato paste or tomato sauce to the mix.  Start with 1/4 cup of tomato sauce and add more if you like it “saucier”
• Season to taste with: garlic powder, salt, pepper, a dash of turmeric, dried herbs (dill is great here) and some red pepper flakes for a little heat.